Day 12

Today we got a bit of a late start, but what’s the rush when you’re warm and have breakfast waiting for you downstairs?! After breakfast I think it’s safe to say that the amount of food we ate in the past three meals would have sustained us for almost a week on trail. And of course we took some extra for the road…

We found the trail that we were to stay on for the rest of the day and began our ~1000 meter descent! This walk was an incredible relief after the past couple days. Even when there were no other footprints the snow was shallow and/or hard enough that we didn’t have to expend a ton of energy with every step. While we walked down we noticed the snow thinning, and this gave us that Spring-like feeling of survival, hope, and expectation of what is to come. This combined with the wonderful views of the mountains we were headed towards and the city in the valley below made today a very pleasant walk. Add to that the fact that we were going down instead of up and not even the cows giving us territorial stares could kill our vibe today.

Once we reached a level where the snow was sparse we changed from our boots into our sandals, giving us much relief. For myself it was particularly freeing as my achilles has been in a good amount of pain the past few days. The intensity was certainly lessened with the softness of the snow, but the pain was apparent on roads and even lying in bed at times. I hurt much less while wearing my sandals, and I think the fact that they are very minimalistic and allow my foot to take a near-natural stride is the key ( not to get too Born to Run on you 😉 ).

We strolled into town (Castiglione di Sicilia), which we had a view of most of the day. Our plan was to stock up on food before heading back up into the Peloritani mountains, where we will be unable to resupply for several days. We didn’t realize that the supermarkets here are closed after noon on Wednesdays. It was getting late, so once again we decided to get a room in order to get to the store first thing in the morning and hit the trail! We aren’t complaining about having to sleep in a bed before heading back out for another mountain adventure.

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Hiking stats.

Day 11

We started this day a bit refreshed, with dry clothing and warm bones, due to our fortunate shelter for the night. But we knew that we still had at least one more tough day in front of us before getting off of the mountain. We typically get started walking around 7 am, but our game plan was to start at 6 in order to potentially utilize the frozen snow to walk on. We didn’t get started until 6:25 and were SOL as far as the snow went. We began our slow climb with headlamps on, post-holing every step of the way.

While we are following the official and way-marked E1 trail, the signs are sometimes hard to find. Get up high in the alpine environment, where all you see is snow-covered lava rock, and finding your way comes down to mostly intuition and experience. We had a hard time finding our way this morning, especially in the dark, and the idea was thrown out there to bail off the mountain into the nearest town. We put off discussing it until, with the help of Björn’s GPS, we finally found our way back on trail in the woods. There we discussed the pros and cons of heading down for the day, and we ultimately decided against it. Today was just one of those days you have to get through to get through, ya know?

I led most of the day, creating the footsteps for Björn to step in and save energy; Björn took over at times and gave me some relief. We climbed up to our highest point of the day at 1723 meters. On the way we had little water, so I scooped some of the snow that was actively falling and put it in my mouth every couple of minutes. My hamstrings had hints of cramping but I held them off. When we got to our high point, it was all worth it and we were both thankful that we pushed through.

Some relief came on our descent, and at times the snow was frozen so we could walk on top! Eventually we saw the first face we’d seen in two days: a man snowshoeing (how nice that would have been). He told us we were getting close to the refugio (a bar/hotel type) and even took a selfie with me when I told him what we were doing.

Around an hour later, at 1 pm, we finally reached “civilization”. Still at around 1400 meters, there were lots of skiers and cars, as well as a couple restaurants and refugios. We both ate an incredible amount and decided on getting a room instead of descending for the remaining 20 km to the next town. It felt nice to shower and we essentially just laid in bed until dinner time, where we gorged ourselves again.

If there is no other reason to hike long distances and deprive yourself of most modern comforts, the great appreciation for things like a warm meal or shower make it all worth it, even if just for a moment.

To check out some videos and pictures, see the Facebook photo album

See other pictures at www.instagram.com/jaredturtlechip

Hiking stats can be found here.

Day 10

There is so much snow on the trail. Even though it was only 4.5 km and about 200 m in elevation gain to the highest point it took us a little over 2 hrs to get there. From there on it was downhill. But it was very hard nevertheless. We post-holed every step knee-deep in powdery snow. We were wet and cold. We are the first ones up here making footsteps in the snow. Halfway down it got a bit easier as we found other people’s footsteps to step in. I was just about to give up on this part of the trail and descend to town when Jared convinced me to keep pushing just a little bit more. Just when we couldn’t take another step we found this little Refugio. It was unlocked and we entered. We were so happy to find fire-wood. It took us about 1 hr. to get the fire started but we made it. Now we can dry our clothes and sleep inside by the fire. It’s raining, but right now we don’t care.

Tomorrow will be another tough day. I hope we finally get off this volcano.

For more pictures visit our album on FB or www.instagram.com/jaredturtlechip.

For stats click here.

Day 9

Last night was cold. My tent was covered in a thin layer of ice – at the outside as well as on the inside.

We wanted to hike some serious distance but we managed only around 22 km (I know the stats say differently but I don’t know why yet…). The morning started out okay and we passed by Refugio Manfré. We stopped there for some warm tea and had a nice conversation with the owner, nice guy. He was very interested in our adventure and told all his friends coming in about us. We had to answer many questions. They gave us some information about our path around Etna. We decided to go to a Refugio only 10 km. away, but eventually didn’t make it there. Shortly after leaving Manfré our path was covered in snow. Post-holing and steep uphill slowed us down to around 2 km/hr. We found another Refugio on the way and decided to stay here. Unfortunately it was closed, but we agreed on pitching our tents anyways. We had to pitch on snow and it started to snow. At least we found a spot underneath a roof and we are protected from the wind. Temperature is going to drop way below zero and I don’t even bother to get out of my clothes. Another freezing cold night…

Our spot for the night

For more pictures visit our album on FB or www.instagram.com/jaredturtlechip

For stats click here.

Day 8

Even though we started late, maybe around 10 a.m., we walked 30 km and made it to Belpasso; we resupplied here for two days only. Now I sit in my tent and worry a bit that it may not be enough. I really don’t know what to expect for the upcoming days. I hope everything turns out well.

Tonight will be freezing. It’s 6 p.m. and the temperature is around 0 degrees Celsius. There are no clouds in the sky, which looks beautiful but it’s gonna get really cold.

Find pictures on our FB album or at www.instagram.com/jaredturtlechip

For hiking-stats click here.

Day 6

Today we had a 21.5 km flat road-walk. It was a kinda not interesting. Luckily we found a short-cut into town, went to Decathlon to buy some stuff and checked in at the hostel we already stayed at last week. If you ever come and visit Catania, this hostel is the place to stay. Friendly staff and affordable prices in the center of town. Check it out: ostello degli elefanti

The first shower for a week was a blessing! Tomorrow we take a day off before we go and climb Etna.

Day 5

We headed out at 7:10 a.m.. It rained; I thought it would all day, but it didn’t.

After 2.5 km we had the chance on either roadwalking for another 2.5 km or stick to the trail, take the scenic route over the mountains which was about 12.5 km long. Luckily J. insisted on the scenic route. With the rain it was only somewhat beautiful, but it was still worth it. We seldom spoke as we climbed wet ’n’ slippery rocks uphill. As we reached the top we found our first official E1 trail-mark, we both were excited about that.

As we hiked downhill it stopped raining and our mood lightened up and we chit-chatted our way into town. We got there at 11:30 and already had 22 km on the clock; we are getting stronger. In town we got some resupply for tonight’s dinner and tomorrow’s breakfast and lunch. After a good break for lunch we decided to keep going.

There was supposed to be a lake we chose to aim for the night. The lake turned out to be some sort of reservoir and not a good idea to sleep. As we were running out of water, we asked a farmer for some and he poured us water out of a canister. As we couldn’t camp as desired we still had to find a place for the night and luckily we found one behind some trees on the side of the road. While I decided to keep my 1 ltr. of water for tomorrow, J. decided to cook hoping to find some water early tomorrow. We’ll see…

On the way to the lake we again were disgusted by the piles of garbage we find on the side of the roads everywhere. It truly is a shame!

For pictures visit www.instagram.com/jaredturtlechip #thatshowlivinisdone

For other stats click here.

Day 4

Last night was cold, well below freezing. But we had to get out of our sleeping-bags and start walking. Our first 2.5 hrs was walking in the shade of the mountains around us in the valley. It was beautiful but as there was no sunshine it was cold all morning, even the water in my drinking bottle froze. At around 10 a.m. we hit the 100 km mark of our adventure and we were pretty excited about it. Afterwards we had some uphill hiking and finally got out of the shade into the warming sun. After climbing to the highest point south of Etna we walked for about another 10 km to find our home for the night in an abandoned locker-room at an abandoned sports-park. We enter the building through a hole in the wall; a bit creepy but that’s just how livin’ is done!

A peek at sunset from inside the building

As always, for pictures visit www.instagram.com/jaredturtlechip #thatshowlivinisdone

And for all you stat-freaks, click here.

Day 3

Today we started at 7:15 a.m. and had a nice morning walking in the woods with beautiful scenery. After walking through the old town of Noto yesterday we passed through Ancient Noto this morning, a town dating back all the way to the 11th century but was destroyed in an earthquake in the 17th.

We had some river-crossings in ice-cold water and we handled them like men 😀

After 34 km we pitched our tents between some orange trees a little offside the road.

For pictures click here. #thatshowlivinisdone

Hiking stats can be found here.